As most tanning processes take place in aqueous baths, water remains a crucial resource for tanneries. The European leather industry has made progress in reducing both the volume of water used in processing and the pollutant load of the resulting wastewater (see European and leather industry - Social and Environmental Report 2020), but it continues to seek new, commercially viable processes and technologies to further reduce its environmental impacts.

Hearth Leather, developed by Rino Mastrotto, represents a promising example of this resource-saving innovation approach. The Rino Mastrotto Group, founded in the 1950s in Arzignano, Italy (in the Veneto region — one of the world’s key tanning districts), is a major company specialising in leather processing for the fashion (footwear, leather goods, apparel), automotive, furniture, and interior design sectors.

Following four years of research, the patented production process now achieves a 91% reduction in water consumption and a 23% reduction in chemical usage during the re-tanning, dyeing, and fatliquoring stages, compared to conventional methods — all while retaining the aesthetic and performance characteristics of traditional leather. These calculations are based on a comparative cradle-to-gate Life Cycle Assessment (LCA), conducted in accordance with ISO 14040 and 14044 standards, on 1 m² of finished cowhide. The assessment compares the conventional production process with one in which the Hearth innovation was applied to the re-tanning, dyeing, and fatliquoring phases. The aim is to extend this process to the tanning phase in the future.

According to Matteo Mastrotto in a recent interview, one key success factor was the collaboration between the inventor (Renato Bertoli, professor and CEO of the company RenBerTech), the machinery supplier, and the tannery. This example demonstrates how environmental progress can go hand-in-hand with product quality, innovation, industrial excellence, and cooperation across the ecosystem. By significantly reducing water and chemical usage, this innovation addresses two of the most pressing environmental issues associated with leather tanning.