According to the World Economic Forum, bio-innovation has the potential for far-reaching implication in every industry, offering social, economic, and environmental  advantages through technological transformational change. Although biotech investments have often been misaligned with existing demand, where successful, they have been excellent examples of socially responsible commercial success. 
 

In the textile industry, bio-based materials are gaining increasing momentum. As these are derived fully or partly from capture carbon or biomass, they are a structural piece to decarbonising the textile industry and moving away from fossil-based fibres. The European Union’s Joint Research Centre identifies three main types of bio-based fibres: natural, semi-synthetic, and synthetic, each having its own specific value chain and production technologies. Synthetic fibres account for the majority of greenhouse gas emission in fibre production, reviewing sustainable alternative is an essential step to help limit global warming.

Next-gen fibres are an emerging solution to this complex issue. Fashion for Good defines them as innovative fibres and materials that have desired improved environmental or social outcomes, compared to conventional options, but are not yet at scale. Based on the success of other climate tech sectors, such as that of electric vehicles, next-gen innovations in fashion seem to be a viable option for improving sustainability across the value chain. 

According to International Fiber Journal, the most demanded bio-based synthetic fibres are polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) fibres, polylactic acid (PLA) fibres, polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibres, and polyamide (PA) fibres. The Material Innovation Initiative (MII) estimated the total addressable market to be “significant” for next-gen silk, as innovators are creating alternative fibres which can mimic the high-performing properties of silk, while decreasing its environmental footprint. 

In fact, several companies are working on the research and development (R&D) and commercialisation of these options. As highlighted in MII’s report companies such as AMSilk, Kintra, Lenzing, Spiber, and Tandem Repeat are turning artificial silk proteins into high-quality silk formulations. 

The fur market represents a unique case, as the use of fur has been negatively viewed by the public, favouring a transition to synthetic alternatives, despite their elevated environmental cost. As fur raises issues with animal welfare and sustainability, next-gen fur materials are based on sustainable inputs and chemistry, thus avoiding animal cruelty. 

The fibre industry is also working towards alternatives for wool, due to its high-maintenance properties and environmental and animal welfare impact. Similarly, the market for next-gen down and polyester fill could be an optimal solution to the serious animal welfare concerns associated with the traditional market.  

In parallel, the European Union has put together several initiatives for the development of bio-based textiles. The EU Sustainable and Circular Textiles Strategy, European Industrial Strategy, and EU Bioeconomy Strategy promote the environmental, economic, and social benefits of bio-based textiles, and the European Commission’s Knowledge Centre for Bioeconomy makes evidence on these materials available to policymakers and experts.