The GRETE project, formally titled 'Green chemicals and technologies for the wood‑to‑textile value chain', was funded by the European Union under the Horizon 2020 Framework Programme. It ran from May 2019 to April 2023, with a total budget of EUR 2.79 million and an EU contribution of EUR 2.56 million. Coordinated by TEKNOLOGIAN TUTKIMUSKESKUS VTT OY (Finland), the consortium brought together partners from Finland, Austria, Portugal, Italy, Spain and France. The project aimed to address the increasing global demand for sustainable textile fibres by developing novel technologies enabling the use of paper‑grade wood pulps and safe, recyclable ionic‑liquid‑based solvents for man‑made cellulosic fibre production. 

A central element of GRETE was the development and validation of innovative technologies to replace conventional dissolving‑grade pulps and hazardous solvents used in cellulosic textile fibre production with more sustainable alternatives.

Key achievements of the project include:

• Use of paper-grade pulps for fibre spinning: Demonstration that softwood and eucalyptus paper-grade pulps can be used for regenerated textile fibres through mild chemical or enzymatic pretreatments, thus expanding the range of useable raw material.
• Development of novel green solvent systems: Creation of three non-toxic superbase ionic liquids with strong cellulose-dissolving performance and stability for recycling, offering a safer alternative to conventional solvents.
• Fibre modification and characterisation: Development of chemical treatments to improve fibre properties, such as dye uptake and surface behaviour, a new method to assess how pulp components are distributed within regenerated fibres.
• Improved fibre performance: Optimised processing conditions enabled the production of regenerated fibres with mechanical properties comparable to those from dissolving-grade pulp.
• Solvent recovery and process feasibility: Assessment of several recovery methods showed that efficient solvent recycling is achievable and that some GRETE concepts offer competitive economic performance.
• Environmental and economic output: A cradle to-gate-assessment indicated notable advantages for the eucalyptus-based GRETE concept.
• Dissemination and scientific output: Delivery of peer-reviewed papers, student theses and a wide range of dissemination activities across conferences, workshops and stakeholder events, such as the Cellulose Fibres Conference 2023 in Cologne, Germany. 

GRETE contributed to ongoing European efforts to support the textile and bio‑based industries by developing technologies that broaden the raw material base for man‑made cellulosic fibres. By exploring recyclable and non‑hazardous ionic liquids as an alternative to conventional solvent systems, the project also aligned with EU objectives on safer chemical use and reduced environmental impact. The work on fibre modification and water‑scarce finishing supports the transition towards more resilient and sustainable textile manufacturing processes. The project’s assessments indicate that the developed approaches hold promising potential for future industrial use within the EU’s textile and bio‑based sectors. 

GRETE was coordinated by the research organisation VTT (Finland) and brought together partners from several European countries, combining expertise in pulp processing, green chemistry and textile fibre development. The project fostered collaboration between research organisations, universities and industrial actors, supporting the exchange of knowledge on ionic liquids, pulp pretreatments and fibre spinning technologies. Through joint workshops, dissemination events and engagement with stakeholder groups, GRETE facilitated the sharing of results and best practices, helping to promote the uptake of more sustainable approaches across Europe.