Innovation is crucial for reducing the environmental impact of the textile and leather ecosystem. One significant way innovation is improving the circularity of this ecosystem is by transforming waste from other production processes into new, innovative materials. This circular approach, known as industrial symbiosis, not only diverts waste from landfills but also reduces reliance on virgin resources, minimises ecological footprints, and fosters a more sustainable and resilient supply chain.

Key principle for waste valorisation from other value chains

For waste valorisation to be truly effective, some key principles must be considered:

1. Prioritise waste streams that are abundant, consistent, and geographically accessible. This ensures a stable and reliable supply of raw material for continuous production.
2. Invest in research and development to create scalable and environmentally sound methods for extracting and transforming waste components into usable fibres or materials. This ensures that the solutions are both effective and sustainable.
3. Foster strong partnerships between waste generators, material innovators, manufacturers, and brands. Such collaborations are essential for effectively integrating new materials into products and bringing them to market.

In the textile and leather ecosystem, innovation in this field primarily concerns waste from the food and agriculture supply chain. This includes materials like fruit and vegetable waste, agricultural by-products, dairy waste, distillery waste, and even mushrooms. Some European innovators in the textiles and leather ecosystem have invested in innovations that leverage on the industrial symbiosis concept and have commercialised these new materials, demonstrating their viability and potential. Two examples are Orange Fiber and Sabant.

Orange Fiber: From Citrus Peels to Luxurious Fabric

Orange Fiber is an Italian company, founded in 2014, that transforms cellulose extracted from discarded citrus fruit peels, a massive by-product of the juice industry, into a luxurious, silky fabric. 
The company's patented process turns this agricultural waste into a soft, lightweight, and breathable material. This fabric is not only vegan and biodegradable but also offers a beautiful drape, making it suitable for high-end fashion. The company registered its cellulose extraction licence in 2014 in Italy and subsequently extended it to the main citrus juice-producing countries, with the intention of applying its technology in the most promising markets. In 2014, they registered their Trademark, which identifies products containing their exclusive yarns and fabrics. 
At their production sites in Sicily, Orange Fiber obtains cellulose from citrus pulp. Thanks to a partnership with the Lenzing Group, the citrus pulp is processed into a textile fibre that combine orange and wood pulp: TENCEL™ Limited Edition x Orange Fiber. This fibre is then transformed into yarns in the factories of Pozzi Electa. Finally, the company work in synergy with textile companies such as Tessitura Serica Taborelli and Tessuti di Sondrio of the Marzotto group to develop their fabric collections. Orange Fiber has achieved significant market acceptance through collaborations with brands such as Salvatore Ferragamo, H&M, and Marinella and has been awarded several international awards.

Sabant: Crafting Skins from Barley Malt

Sabant, a Croatian company founded in 2021, is pioneering the transformation of barley malt – a substantial by-product of alcohol production – into innovative leather-like materials. Breweries and distilleries globally generate vast quantities of spent grain, which typically ends up as animal feed or waste. Sabant's innovation intercepts this valuable by-product, giving it a new life as a durable and versatile material.
Their patented technology, filed in 2023, meticulously converts these residual grains into a material that effectively mimics the feel and performance of conventional leather. Sabant currently produces distinct "Gin Skins" and "Beer Skins," each with unique characteristics derived from their specific waste sources. While these products are already on the market, the company's research and development efforts are ongoing, continually exploring new formulations and launching additional types of skin. These "Gin Skins" and "Beer Skins" offer a vegan material for a wide range of applications, from fashion accessories to upholstery.
Sabant's commitment to sustainability extends beyond waste valorisation. By utilising a common industrial waste product, they significantly reduce overall waste and minimise environmental impact through a localised sourcing, processing, and production chain. This is exemplified by their partnership with Zagreb’s own Zmajska brewery, which provides them with the raw plant matter needed for their innovative materials.

Conclusion

Both Orange Fiber and Sabant have successfully developed materials that meet the performance and aesthetic expectations of traditional textiles and leathers, accelerating market acceptance. They demonstrate how agricultural waste and by-products can be transformed into desirable, sustainable textiles, providing an alternative to traditional fibres and reducing the environmental burden of both the food and fashion industries. By re-imagining waste as a valuable resource, the textile and leather industries can unlock new material possibilities, enhance their sustainability credentials, and drive a truly circular economy.