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Washington University develops protein-based fibres for circular textile recycling

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27 July 2026

Washington University develops protein-based fibres for circular textile recycling

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Laboratory glassware on a lab bench with a pipette in a transparent beaker containing a clear liquid.

Researchers at Washington University in St. Louis discovered a new category of protein-based textile fibres developed through synthetic biology. The fibres are biodegradable and can be recycled quickly and repeatedly while maintaining their properties, offering a more sustainable alternative for the textile industry.

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The University of Washington

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Academic / Research and VET Institutions

  • Transition Pathway's building blocks

    • R&I, techniques and technological solutions

  • Industrial ecosystems

    • Textile

  • Textiles ecosystem areas

    • Fibres, yarns and fabrics

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Researchers at Washington University in St. Louis discovered a new category of protein-based textile fibres developed through synthetic biology. The fibres are biodegradable and can be recycled quickly and repeatedly while maintaining their properties, offering a more sustainable alternative for the textile industry.

These new protein-based fibres can be dissolved in a mild formic acid solution within seconds and remade into the same durable material. Because the process does not require chemical bonds to be broken down and rebuilt, it uses less energy than many conventional recycling methods, reducing both costs and emissions.

In order to create fibres that are both strong and easy to recycle, the researchers combined natural proteins from mussels, spider silk and amyloids. The result is a new hybrid material, known as SAM. The proteins inspired by mussels allow the fibres to dissolve quickly in formic acid, while the spider silk and amyloid components help the fibres regain their original strength when they are rebuilt. 

If adopted on a larger scale, this technology could help reduce the number of synthetic fibres entering waterways and limit microplastic pollution. It could also help manufacturers lower production costs through more efficient recycling, making sustainable textiles more commercially viable.

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